I'm sorry if I am putting this in the wrong area I search the forums for a similar post and found only ones that will open after a shutdown. I'll give you the shortened version of the story...
We purchased a DELL computer (biggest waste of money ever!) about 1 1/2 years ago. Since then we have replaced the cd-rw drive 4 time. Each time I have fought DELL for hours on the phone to get them to pay for the replacement --the first driver lasted 2 months and 4 cds. Each one has lasted a similar lenght of time. Here is what happens...
You burn a cd (first three drivers using Roxio, last one using Nero). Everything works great. You shut down the computer. After restart the driver door locks and never opens again. Each time has used a different brand cd-rw driver so I doubt that is the cause. I use CD-R discs so I don't think the issue others have had with CD-RW discs is a factor. We replaced the Roxio software thinking that might be the problem but I went to use it this morning and it made a horrible grinding sound and refused to open (I tried using the manual button and using the computer command)--Nothing. I tried physically removing the drive and removing the software and re-installing everything--Nothing. THe first time it happened we used the paperclip in the hole method and succeeded in breaking the little band that makes the gears go (sorry for the lack of technical terms here.) Each time Dell has been out here they have replaced the driver and been on thier merry way. It is only this last time I realized it has to burns cds, shut down, and then it locks up. ANY SUGGESTIONS????? I am ready to chuck this whole thing out!!!! We can't afford a new computer right now and I have no way of saving my work other than on the hard drive or buying a 5th CD-RW!!!

I'm not sure what info you would need about my system-- I use Windows XP2000. But I would appreciate some help. I can tell you I am not a total computer idiot but I probably fall at a 2 in the scale of 1-10 (and trust me I am putting 10 as the highest). I can read directions and follow them, and I was thrilled at being able to upgrade the memory (long after the problems started) and replace the last CD-RW.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!
Elizabeth

Hmm. Could be software or hardware-related. First rule. Power down and then power up. Do a cold boot or power down by not using the reset button, but rather the power button. At the Bios screen (black screen that shows your cpu speed and ram or shows dell's logo. Shortly after seeing this screen press "delete" or use the command if there is one that Dell provides to get into system configuration or bios. This could be ctrl f1 or f1 or delete or even tab. Normally this command to get into the Bios is located at the left or center of your screen upon bootup or at the Dell logo screen.) It depends.

Once you're in the bios, check to see if your particular cd-rw is showing up. This could be in the Advance Bios option or Cmos or Advance Features. Since I don't know what bios you're running Award or Ami Megatrend, etc... you will need to just scroll around all the options until you find your drive. If you find your drive and it is detected currently, just exit and save to get out of the bios screen. If not, reset your bios to default settings within the bios screen itself or you may have to reset it manually by resetting the cmos button. Consult your Dell motherboard manual to find where this button is on the motherboard. Most motherboards have this cmos button/jumper located near the circular battery (Sony, panasonic, etc...). At the cmos jumper, move the pin to the 1st or 2nd spot of the cmos jumper (again consult your manual to see which move will reset the cmos. Most motherboards will reset the cmos at the 2nd place pin.) Leave it at the "reset position" for 3 mins. After that, place the pin back on the normal or default position or the position it was on before you moved it. Power back up into windows. Remember to completely power down your pc and unplug the power cables before doing this manual bios resetting.

Also check your cd-rw cables for bent or improper connections from motherboard to the cd-rw drive during the time that you spent manually resetting the bios via cmos jumper. Make sure the cables are connected properly on both ends. The connections should be firm but not forceful. There should be 40 or 80 pins depending on your cables. If the connections are done right, the ide cables should fit in the drive and motherboard ide channels without much effort. Check for dust particles as well on the cables and motherboard's ide channels. Dust can interefere with the signaling between the motherboard and drive. (Again, consult your manual for explanation on where your ide channels are located. Normally it is where you plug the drive into the mainboard when you open up the computer case.) Here, also check to see if your drive is set as master or slave and on what ide channel, primary or secondary. Everything should be marked on the drives, cables, and ide channels so that you know what is what.

Now the software part, in windows, make sure that your drive is properly detected. If I recall go to the control panel\system properties or system\hardware\device manager or hardware manager\cd/dvd rom\look for your drive here and double click on its properties to check if it is functionally correctly. Windows should detect this and tell you your drive status. The path to your drive's properties may be slightly different, but it shouldn't be too different from the above path. Keep looking. If all is ok and the drive is working properly as indicated by windows. Then exit out of all the open windows. Now try pressing the eject button on your cd-rw. Now, restart using the restart button. Once you're back in windows again, press the eject button again to see if the problem is still there.

If the problem remains, it's obviously not a hardware problem since you are on your "fourth or fifth cd-rw already." It's still possible, but unlikely. You may have software conflicts. Use only one burning software Roxio or Nero. If you use one other the other, uninstall the one that you're not currently using via Add/Remove function control panel. (start/control panel or my computer/control panel.) The software conflicts may also involve other softwares not necessarily "burning softwares." Before attempting to burn, make sure that you shut down or disable any programs such as antivirus scanners, screen savers, etc... that may be running in your taskbar on the lower right corner of your screen.

Have you checked your pc for viruses and trojans as well using the latest virus scanners and definition signatures?

Do you get any unusual error messages within windows and bios that can be directly or indirectly related to your problem? Write them down for reference.

The worst software problem could be windows itself. Try reinstalling windows 2000 from ground zero. Do a complete harddrive format (NTFS) first. Place your windows 2000 disk into the cd-rom drive and restart your computer. Go into the bios as before. There make sure that your 1st boot device is "cd-rom." If all is ok, then save and exit from the bios. Now the cd-rom drive or cd-rw drive should boot the windows 2000 disk. Once in the windows 2000 setup screen, follow the onscreen instructions. Of course remember to backup all the files that you need before reinstalling windows 2000.

Of course, there are still many more things that can be checked. Try these suggestions first. Remember to post your system specs. What cpu, ram, etc...? How much ram? What windows 2000 version, professional, home, server, or corporate edtion? What mainboard brand? What bios version and type? You get the picture.

Later.

How long do these CD-R(W) drives last before they exhibit this problem? If the problem shows up immediatly, you should be able to return/exchange the drive from the place of purchase, or in worse case, to the manufacturer.

Another thought, does your computer have USB or FireWire ports? You could try an external drive, and see if the problem persists (or you could put an internal drive into an external enclosure).

Also, you described your system as "Windows XP2000", which is confusing. "Windows XP" and "Windows 2000" are two different operating systems.

You can not rule out a hardware problem. In fact, one thing that comes to mind is the Power source (PSU - Power Supply), or even the power outlet/wiring at your location. This is, IMO, one of the most overlooked components for misbehaving computers (and parts).

Also, mabey if you post your computer model number (Dell Dimension xyz... for example), we might be able to find out more info about your system from Dell's web site.

Good Luck!

Some good suggestions as well, Skith. Definitely, can't rule out hardware-related issues. In fact, I would also suggest updating the drive's firmware to the most current version if possible. Power supply is a good one as well. Need good power to keep those optical drives running properly. What is your power supply, brand and watts? Another obvious suggestion is to make sure that there's no physical object jamming the tray or on the drive and tray mounts. Try placing the drive on a different ide channel as well. Make sure to set it as master or slave on this channel. Note any problems that may occur. You may have a damage ide channel on the mainboard if the drive works on the other ide channel whether it be the primary or secondary. This is rare, but it does occur. Unfortunately, to solve this problem would mean replacing your mainboard with a new one from Dell. Is your computer still under warranty? Almost forgot to mention, a power supply greater than 300 watts is warranted for newer systems these days. Good brands include Enermax, Antec, FuturePower, Fortron Source, Vantec, Raidmax, Powmax, Kingwin, Globalwin, etc... Typically, Enermax, Antec, and Vantec are the most popular, but also the most expensive. I would recommend Fortron Source if you're on a budget. If not, then go with either the Antec, Vantec, or Enermax.

Keep in mind that Dell has been known to put in too many integrated parts into their systems. If one part fails, it seems that everything else does as well also. It also makes it difficult to upgrade later down the line since their parts are "Dell specific." That's how they can at times excessively charge people who are ignorant of computers. You can't just go to your local computer store to pick up any replacement parts since it has to be "Dell specific." Well, at least that's been my experience with Dell. I consider Dell and Gateway to be in the same "trash" categories. My sister has worked for both Dell and Gateway. At times she gets discount on their computers. Every single computer that she has brought home has problems from the start. You may say it's just bad luck. However, I have tried other brands without any problems at all.

Post back and let us know how it goes. Later. Thanks Skith for the other suggestions!

Hello, Thank-you for all the suggestions-- Here are the items you asked for--The POSC (pieco of s**t computer) is a Dell 2350, Windows XP version 2002, Using BIOS AO2, Processer Intel Celeron R, Speed 2.2, Bus Speed 400 MHz, CPU 2.20 GHz, 2.19 GHz, 512 MB RAM.
Sofar I have tried: cold boot (no change), I reset the BIOS to default (no change). The BIOS listed 1st Boot: Floppy, 2nd: Hard Disk, 3rd: CDRom, 4th: LAN But in the Device manager it says that both CD drives are working properly and are enabled. I can say when I press the eject button it makes the sounds like it is going to open but never does. SO I know the bugger is getting the message. I had already used the remove/unistall feature to remove all of the Roxio components before I installed the Nero software and the new burner (#4). I thought that Roxio was the problem at the time. This last time it burned 3 cds in one trip (thank god I burned the baby picture cs first!!!!!) and then the computer got shut down and it hasn't worked since. I have seriously thought of just buying a new burner of the same model and returning the dead one but I don't really think the burners are what is causing the problems (afterall we have been giving a different brand each time with no difference in working time). We have a virus program (McAfee) that runs on each start-up do we need something different? We have not gotten any strange error messages either. I don't see how I can re-install the Windows program itself because I can't back anything up-- I have no burner to back it up with. All my work is currently being saved to the hard drive since I have no way of saving off the computer (did I mention it is a POSC???)
I have thought of getting the external drive--does that not have as many problems? I use the USB port for my digital camera and printer and they both work without too many hitches. I don't know the brand of power supply (I assume Dell is keeping that a secret) but the users manual says it is a 200W or 250 W. The Computer is not still under Warrenty but Dell has agreed to fix the problem since it has been occuring since we first purchased it (or so they said the last time I talked with them on the phone for 3 hours). I don't really know how to change the IDE and slave/master things. I wish I did but as I said before the computer recognizes the drive and the drive even makes sounds like it is going to open when you press the button but it doesn't open..... I have the wierdest computer... Is there any way their is a lock on the cd burner that is stuck? How it would get stuck on each burner I don't know but I don't get how the computer can tell my the burner is there and working fine, the burner and light up and try to open but the darn thing still won't work--- where is the problem?
Sorry to vent I am just fed up, my husband has given up and left it to me and previous to this computer I was proud that I could install new software (from cd).
Elizabeth

I just had a thought... you could try removing the IDE cable, but leave the drive's power connector hooked up. An IDE cable a flat ribbon cable with either 40 or 80 wires, and is flat but about 2" wide. Be sure to disconnect the one connecting the CD drive, not the one connecting the hard drive! Leave the power (molex) connector hooked up to the CD drive. The power connector should have 4 colored wires, and is smaller than the IDE cable.

(Power down the PC first, and remove the Power cord, and ground yourself before sticking your hands in the case)

Once the cable is removed, put the case cover back on (for safty) but you don't have to put the screws back in (if any). Plug the pc power cord back in, and power up the PC. Now try using the Eject button on the CD drive.

If:

- The tray ejects, your problem is not the drive, but with the system (software, motherboard, power supply, or possibly the cable are all prime candidtates).

- If the drive still refuses to eject the tray, the drive is (A) broken, and/or (B) Your power supply is to blame.

I am unsure of the power requirement for Intel/Celeron type systems, but 200-250W seems rather low for any "relatively" new system.

As for data backups - adding an addition (internal) or external HD is a consideration. In fact, I would highly recommend it. Having a serparate hard disk for storing "data only" allows for easier backups, and protection should you need to format/re-install windows.

A single HD can also be "partitioned" into multiple drive letters. I would not recommend doing this on a running system though, as you will lose data. (Some tools like Partition Magic can allow splitting of existing drives without data loss - but should not be attempted without a full backup first).

As an example, a 160GB HD could be split up like this:
[C:\] - Windows install - 8GB partition
[D:\] - Program - 20GB
[E:\] - Games - 30GB
[F:\] - Data (family photos) - 60GB
[G:\] - downloads - other stuff - 40GB

Should the need arise, you can wipe windows and reinstall without losing photos, downloads, etc. (you would have to reinstall programs/games).

Don't give up!
---------------------
The users guide for the Dell Dimension 2350

Ok, here is the update... Right before you posted the last suggestion I decided since the last time I used the manual eject button--using the paperclip-- I did it with the computer running (DELL told me to --in my defense) and that resulted in the belt breaking. I thought I would try the manual eject with the paperclip thing with it completly shut down. Well, the belt broke again.... So I went and got another cdrw drive. (thats #5). Now here is the weird part. I did nothing but change out the drive and it works (well for now anyway....). So here is the delima, what makes them die and how do I prevent cdrw death. As best I can tell nothing changed between the old one dying and the new one working other than changing the drives. So why do they lock up? If a cable or power supply was bad wouldn't they just not work from the very beginning? (I really don't know--can computer parts only work part time with a damaged component?) I primarly want to use the CD burner as a back-up source-- would it be better to just get an external hardrive and forget the burner? I would like to copy a few discs but it just doesn't seem worth the hassel at this point. Could a software or motherboard issue result in it working for awhile and then just dying forever? I think that is the biggest confusion for me. I am used to a part working or not working but these things start off fine and then are taken out by something. No settings in the computer that I can find are changed and the computer always recognizes them as working--even as they aren't working. I really appreciate you guys trying to help. I have to agree with the assesment that DELL computers are terrible. We just don't have the money to buy a new computer to replace on that isn't even 2 years old. Everything else works, I just want to be able to back up my work so my family pictures, all my homeschooling materials, and all my work from teaching won't be lost forever Any suggestions?

Thanks again
Elizabeth

I think your problem is power realeated: either your power supply is damaged and tends to send higher than normal voltage or your outlet tends to do that and your power source is incapable of stoping it.

PS: i never understood people that bought already build branded pc's coz they are expensive and shity

Pre-built systems have their advantages, especially for those who just do common tasks. Not everyone has the time to learn how to put a computer together. Not to mention the time it takes to find compatable parts (Intel vs. AMD), price them out, etc. etc.

In regards to the "emergency eject pin" - the manuals of my optical drives state that the power should be off before using the (paperclip) eject pin.

When the drive refuses to eject the disc tray, does it make any noises? Does the light on the front of the drive flash at all? If it happens again, you might try connecting it to a different computer, before using the eject pin.

An external drive (CD or hard drive) may be the way to go. If your computer does not have USB 2.0, you might want to add a PCI expansion card. If you can afford to spend a little more, I would suggest getting either a firewire, or firewire/USB 2.0 combo card. External drives with firewire interfaces tend to be a bit more expensive (they are usualy featured on the top range of product lines). I have to admit, I am a bit biast agains USB 2.0, which works perfectly well for many people.

As for what can cause hardware to fail...well one just needs to remember the saying: "If it can go wrong, it will."

I am still highly suspicious of your powersupply. A surge/dip in power can damage motors, electrical circuits, and cause all sorts of wieird things. A 200W power supply is rather questionable (I checked the specs of your Dell Dimension model on dell's web site). Unfortunately, upgrading/switching PSUs it no small task (especially keeping the cables organized in a fassion that does not prevent airflow inside the system).

For this reason, an external drive would be your best bet, as it would have it would not draw power from the computer.

Don't give up!