i just tested an old cd i burnt over a year ago.....thought i had stored it well....but it turned out to be a rebadged prodisc grade c-....could it get any worse? anyway i tested it using dvdinfo and it was fine but when i test with nerospeedcheck 1.02e it says i have errors and damage. which should i beleive and in the case that it is damaged......can i recover the damaged parts onto a new cd?

whenever i try using kprobe, i cant use wite strategy as it returns a "052000 invalid operation code"?

K-probe only works with Lite-On made drives, do you have a Lite-On?

Tried the Nero CD-Speed error test function? If there is some yellow spikes, then there is C2 errors.....C2 errors could be corrected by the drives error correction functions. Also C2 errors is likely to develop into unreadable errors after some years.

The beta category (c-) have nothing to do with the grade of the disc!!!! And thus not related to the quality of the disc.

A disc with a beta category of C- may be better than a disc with A+ beta category.

On the other hand the manufacturer procisc have very varying quality from the best to the worst........

I recommend sticking to good brands like Taiyo Yuden for example, when long time storage is on your mind.

nope...so there is no point using it then?

wat are c1 and c2 errors? wat can i do abt it? can i rewrite it on another cd to remove the errors or am i lumbered with it...even if i record it elsewhere?

wat is the catagory type for? is it the same as dye type? is dye1 better than dye6?

how can you tell which grade you have bought from acertain manufacturer? same say premium grade for bulkpaq and discrete i have. the bulkpaq is at least long strategy azo/cyanine...so they should be longer lasting right?

apart from ty wat else should i look for? think they are hard to come by in the uk unless you know where or wat brand i should go for? also i read somewhere that ty code is straight in the disc on verbatims...is this their usual style so most have this should be the ty? in uk not all stuff is labeled Made in XXX...

Mypolar:

If your after quality CD-R's in the UK, it's a bit of pain in the @ss to say the least finding reasonably priced Quality discs.
For Taiyo Yuden made discs, Plextor-branded 48x discs are the only guaranteed ones i know of in the UK.
E-buyer & savastore sold them last time i checked. You can get unbranded T.Y's from other places BUT as these have no protective coating, i personally would give those a miss.

Personally, Bulkpaq, discrite, etc are at best Average quality discs which aren't good enough for the really important stuff. The Premium grade labelling is just Bullsh*t. I got a lot of 'Premium grade' Infiniti's which i would only call acceptable (Ritek ATIP).

yah i was kinda disappointed that these are pretty $hit. at least the bulkpaq is ritek i suppose. wat is the difference btw ritek js and ritek s?

just looked at ebuyer... no luck...going to savacentre now....btw where do you get your pc goodies in the uk usually....? anywhere that is good and places to steer clear off?

The various letters refer's to the specific dye formulation of the Ritek dye, i'm not too sure which dye-formulations of Ritek's is considered the best, a Search on the CD/RW testing thread at the top of this forum might give you a clue or maybe someone who knows a bit more about Ritek's various dye's could give you a decent answer.

I've generally steered clear of using Taiwanese manufactured discs for the important stuff, stuck to my MCC/TY/TDK's (I know some people hate TDK's but on a compatible writer, their great!). Having said that, i've probably gone through a good few thousand Prodisc & Ritek manufactured discs over the years

Had a google for you & found these current links for TY media in the UK:

http://www.span.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_306_392
http://shopping.lycos.co.uk/shopping...in_700_mb.html

Hope it's useful mate.

The latest ritek discs seems to be ritek TG, these is very good discs but should not be written at more than 40X (although many is sold as 48/52X certified).

JS is also good, but the same counts for these as well: 40X recording recommended.

that doesnt matter as my burners are only 12 and 32x anyway. is there any media tha shouldnt be burnt faster than 12x or 32x?? apart from cdrw obviously.

32X max should probably be good for most discs certified for 40X or more.

after i burn if a cd is bad will it automatically show in test? if a test comes out with errors does it mean it is bad.

mypolar,

Generally it is said that any disc that comes up without yellow (C2) errors was a good burn. This will show immediately after the burn and it is a good idea to get into the habit of running this test on any important data and also to see how reliable and consistent your media is.

However, I've also read that this does not mean the disc will be as good in the future, it may degrade or deteroriate very quickly.

Personally I have not seen this, generally my experience is that a good disc will burn without C2 errors and if stored properly it will last a very long time.

how is the best way to store cds...esp if i bought spindles? i found that the underside of cds easily scratch..is this poor quality media or poor handling...?

Have a read of this thread, i linked a couple of old threads about peoples experiences with storage in it.

Personally, due to excessive amounts of CD-R's burned over the years, i use spindles these days. I have some in TDK twyvek sleeves & a few hundred jewel-cased ones aswell.

http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread....threadid=77516


Are the scratches there when you bought the media??
If so, thats poor packaging & handling by the company. If they've only appeared after you used them, it's something at your end.