As far as Inner Outer measurement,
This is what info I found stated for Watershield TY's:

Product Details:

New from Taiyo Yuden WaterShield blank media for inkjet disc printers! Unlike normal inkjet discs, WaterShield is water resistent, scratch resistant, and features a glossy finish. Taiyo Yuden, the Inventor of CD-Recordable technology, offers media certified for the highest recording speeds.

The all-new WaterShield blank media is the best way to ensure your discs stay protected from harsh everyday elements. From Taiyo Yuden, the inventor of the DVD-R, WaterShield discs repel water and protect from wear and scratches.

WaterShield DVD-R hub-printable media features the very same qualities as Taiyo Yuden's original discs. With the world's widest record and playback compatibility, you're assured a great disc, delivered perfectly every time.

What else can the WaterShield do?

Writes all forms of audio and data
ISO 14001 certified manufacturing
100-year durability data integrity guarantee from Taiyo Yuden
Zero wave distortion
Lowest jitter levels
Lowest bler, E12, and E22 error rate in the industry

Please Note: Due to a a special treatment on the outer edge on the label side the recommended print area is 25 - 116.5mm.
- 50 Disc/Spindle - 300 disc per carton

The TY glossy produces stunning detail, much sharper than the flat TY printable. It may be that I got lucky, that the glossy and my Canon printer just get along very well. But I'd still recommend this media to anyone.

I use 23-118 and it seems to work fine. There's still a .5mm band of white at the outside.

Hope my Epson R320 does the same.

Some folks report smudgy ink until it dries in a day or so. Depends on what ink you are using on the Epson. The Canon ink dries almost instantly. (I do live in the desert)

you can go 22 on inner 119 on outer per epson howerver if your setting is photo there could be some bleeding at 119 but i use text and print setting no bleeding plus i use a lot less ink try same cover on both setting

What model printer do you have? And aren't you getting all the dots as some people here said?

The dots are called halftones. When the original is printed, they used halftone screens. Scanning at a higher resolution will make the dots more like the original. You will get a better image to print. Anything printed that has a picture has dots. Use a magnifying glass and you will see them.

I suspect that "moire" is what's being referred to here, and yes this is a result of scanning any type of printed media, like magazines and DVD inserts. There's some pretty easy ways to be rid of this, none of which involve the printer.

When scanning printed media, scan at 300 DPI. Most scanner drivers also include a filter for reducing moire, it will be called that or something like "descreen". These filters are effective. Once scanned at 300, open the image in Photoshop or whatever you use, and reduce the resolution to 150 without resizing. This will eliminate most of the moire, and any remaining can usually be removed with a "despeckle" or "noise" filter in the image program.

A Google search for "moire" will produce a wealth of information.

I guess i should have read back Sorry if i confused anyone.

One more thing though some people don't know. Bleeding is when the printing area runs off the end of whatever you are printing on.

Hi, which code are these Taiyo Yuden Watershields? I have read that some people are not very happy with the quality of the recording, not the looks of it thought. And is the Rima.com site the cheaper place to get?
Thanks!!

Mine are TYG03's -R 16X from Rima. My Lite-On 20A1P and LG H42N seems to burn them the best @16X. I tried 12X but get better results @16X. I haven't tried them in all my burners yet. I only ordered 50 of them,they are kind of expensive. You might have to play around with speeds on your burners to see what's best for you. I don't know where to get them cheaper but someone else might

I burn my Yuden000-T02-000 with my BenQ DW1620 @ 12X, no other speed will give such great results. With MCC004 I can burn with even better results again at 12X. The few seconds difference between 12X and 16X makes be belive that the firmwares are not optimized for 16X burning. The only high speed burn I get that is acceptable is with the LGH42N RLOO. But then again I do not know how accurate the scans really are.

Alan do you have TY02 WaterShields?

Yes. Too bad they only make dash media.

I have the BenQ DW1655 but i have been burning only at 8x believing that the quality will be better. I have been using Verbatim and Taiyo's DVD 16x Value media (TY03). I am going to start using Nero's CD-DVD speed to see at which speed it is best.

yeah burn a couple and see what speed works best.

Alan you got me lost now

The Watershields I bought were only available in dash not +. Maybe I didn't look hard enough. TYG03.

You had me going there for awhile. I thought i over looked the TY02 ones

The "dots" that others have mentioned are not halftone dots. They are instead found only at the extreme border of the white printable area of the Watershield disks, and represent where, for some reason or other, the sprayed-on ink has not been absorbed by the white surface. I would assume it's some sort of beading agent applied to the extreme edge for some reason. After a day or so these dots will dry, but even then they are barely visible and could detract slightly from an otherwise clean print job.

The solution is to reduce the printable image diameter slightly so that only a receptive surface is sprayed.

I use the Watershield disks in a Canon IP3000 printer with the CD/DVD print feature enabled (normally disabled for USA printers). I've retired my Stomper alignment tool and my cherished Meritline glossy CD labels for good.

I've also come to the conclusion that I get the best burns with my NEC 3550A burners at 8x for the TY DVD-R blanks, even though they are rated at up to 16x. This is based on the graphs generated by Nero's CD/DVD tool. The error rate at the extreme outer diameter is somewhat higher at 16x, though it still plays fine. The only penalty is an added minute of burn time, a worthwhile tradeoff in my view.