Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. - Club CDFreaks

CoolhandTN · 23-05-2006

Had the player almost a year and its worked like a charm until today. Finished watching a flick this afternoon and went to take my dog out when i came back in the unit was off and i didnt pay it any mind. I tried to put another movie in about an hour later and i cant get it to do anything at all now. The standby/power light stays on when plugged up but when you try to turn it on by that button or the eject on the remote or unit itself the light will go off for a second then come back on and nothing happens. I've mashed every button i can think of and i cant even get it to open. Any suggestions would be appreciated, i cant afford to buy another one right now so hopefully this is just some fluke..

wobble · 23-05-2006

In the user comments on this player at videohelp.com is a fix for the problem you are having. Something about replacing a capacitor.

**imkidd57** · 23-05-2006

Hi CoolhandTN, and welcome to the forum

.

What you describe is something pretty basic. Before suggesting anything complicated, if your machine is less than 1 year old, then a return under the manufacturer's standard guarantee may be the easiest first step.

CoolhandTN · 24-05-2006

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the date when it was bought and it was almost 2 years ago (i have a bad memory) so the warranty is out. I read up on the power problem and checked it out to find that i had a capicitor swollen which i assumed was the problem according to the post at the other place. I removed the old one and stole the correct one from an old apex i had for parts and now i get the blinking light.

It didnt blink before just stayed solid then blinked when i tried to press buttons, but after seeing the capicitor that had to be what was wrong with it. It was my first time sautering so maybe i did something wrong. I made sure the holes were clear so i'm not sure where i screwed up. Any other suggestions would be appreciated, i dont really have anyone that can sauter so if i cant fix it i'll just sell it for a fixer upper/parts unit.

If nothing else i'd like to be able to get my dvd out of the player, maybe someone can help with that lol..

wobble · 24-05-2006

Are you sure the capacitor you used was the same as the one you took out? There are thousands of different capacitors that can look the same but work differently.
Most go by an Mfd or Mu rating, and whether they are P or Np which have to be put in the right direction (stripe on one side). Save the old one and take it to an electronic supply store and they can get you the correct one. Shouldn't cost more than $2 or so. This is the article I read at videohelp.com. I saw it a few months ago and saved it since I have 2 of these players and saw that it was a common problem.

Quote:

Comments:
Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die, and you have a blinking red power
button.
This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I make it look, but I'm just being really clear in
case anyone reading this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did (and note that, if
you're still under warranty, this will void your warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion
and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away.
Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and
replace it.
Long version:
1. Unplug everything
2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover.
3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor (looks like a little drum with a '+' on the
top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be leaking some brown fluid as well.
4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says 'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316',
you'll get hundreds of hits...
5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics
place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a
voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's simply what others have reported success with.
I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to find one that looks somewhat similar to
the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll want the same basic shape). This should cost
less than $2.
6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed one from a friend at work...this is NOT
my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty!
7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that board out. Unplug the two cables
connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding it down, and, using some pliers, hold
down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the board down and slide the board up. I flipped
this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in place.
8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the board where the C316 capacitor is attached.
Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one shorter leg which is the negative side. It
will likely be marked this way as well.
9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side this is. You may not be able to see it until it
is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it.
10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron across the joints you identified as belonging to
C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free. This is a little tricky to hold the iron,
the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn yourself! Again, note which side is negative and
which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is positive. There will likely be some solder
left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two holes or you will short out the connection.
11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against
that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron
across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and the capacitor down to the board.
12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small mound of solder joining each leg to the metal
of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's run to some other points, you'll need to do
some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an expert at this. If you need a little more
solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed your solder into the hot spot until a small
amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then remove the solder. Look at the other
solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look.
13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder.
14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables.
15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in.
Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch
a movie.

jacksparrow · 11-07-2006

I'm having the same solid standby light problem as CoolhandTN and did indeed have a blown C316 cap. After replacing the capacitor with a 1000uf 16v part, I'm still seeing a solid standby light with no response to buttons. Any ideas?

vulpine · 11-07-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by wobble

Are you sure the capacitor you used was the same as the one you took out? There are thousands of different capacitors that can look the same but work differently.
Most go by an Mfd or Mu rating, and whether they are P or Np which have to be put in the right direction (stripe on one side). Save the old one and take it to an electronic supply store and they can get you the correct one. Shouldn't cost more than $2 or so. This is the article I read at videohelp.com. I saw it a few months ago and saved it since I have 2 of these players and saw that it was a common problem.

THANKYOU THANKYOU THANKYOU just changed the capacitor all fixed. You are a star!

bossfn · 29-08-2006

Would it be safe to use a 1000u capacitor that is rated 50V ? I couldn't find a 16/32 at the source here in canada. I guess I could try a different store, but if I can get away with this one I will.

RuWin · 09-09-2006

50V will work fine as long as it can fit... Low-ESR type capacitor would be preferable,though...

Unfortunately, "no power" problem also could be caused by defective CPU board (up to 40 percents of cases). Even screwed up firmware can cause "No power" problem... and sometimes defective front panel control board.

mlim82480 · 30-10-2006

The capacitor I took out of my player was 10v 1000uF. Should I try getting another 10v or go with a higher ratings?

galactico · 05-12-2006

wobble, thanks a ton!! i changed the cap, and the player works like a charm. the good news is 2 other guys at work have an identical model, and now know how to fix it if the player barfs on them. Thanks again

BlackMael · 11-03-2007

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

I noticed the problem with my 642k a couple of weeks ago and only just got round to looking for a fix. At first I thought it was just a standard/simple issue and it would be something in the manual. After a couple of hours I finally track down my manual only to find it was useless.

Five minutes googling lead me here

I'm not usually only confident to perform electronic alterations, but thought I had nothing to lose.

The capacitor in question only cost me 20 cents NZ!

The original one was also only 10v.

The new capacitor worked like a charm.

Again thank you!

caltroon · 05-05-2007

Does anyone have photos of this procedure? I got my red blinking light today. DVP642/37

It appears as though this is a two step procedure - take the damaged capacitor out first and bring it to Radio Shack, match it up, then bring it home and put it in. Is this so?

I've read the instructions and they seem really complicated. I hope if I follow this step by step I can do it.

Thank you,

Carol

Crash27 · 18-12-2007

Thanks ! This worked perfect.

I bought my DVP 642/37 in 2004 from The Source, It has been a great player, I installed the newest Firmware and the Region free hack. It has worked great with almost all movies, The occasional time the it would play movies all out of whack and distorted but all I had to do was turn on Progressive and then after it did its page flash I would just exit and the movie was crystal clear, Other than that It has done everything I wanted it to. Then a few days ago I decided that I was going to upgrade to a newer Phillips so I bought the new DVP5982/37 so I could use the USB which works great, but anyway I gave the old DVP642/37 to the girfriend and not even 20 minutes later she broke it. I had the issue listed above, the power light would just flash on and off, the occasional time it would stay on until I hit a button then it would start flashing again so I took a look at the Capacitor C316 and it was buldged at the top. I had tons of capacitor's from all my electronics I salvaged and I replaced it with the same one 10000u @10V and it works great now thanks to this site and post.

jephthah · 09-03-2008

hello, people:

ESR is not the issue. anyone who says it is, doesnt know what they're talking about, and is just parroting the same misinformation. we're talking about a power supply circuit, not a high speed microcontroller.

the problem is, Phillips put 10V Capacitors on a 12V Power Supply. so of course its going to eventually fail, due it to being overvoltaged. the longer you leave the device on at a time, the sooner it will fail.

all you have to do is put a similar capacitance of at least 16V in its place. I put a 35V cap. if you replaced it with another 10V cap, it will eventually fail again, in about the same amount of time that it took it to fail the first time.

the question is, why is Phillips installing 10V caps in a power supply that calls for 16V? incompetence? negligence? what?

minkrott · 13-09-2008

Thank you!! I bought Radio Shack part number 272-1032 1000 uf, 35 V and installed negative side towards power cord / fuse. It cost $1.59 plus tax. DVD player now works like new.

johnnyl · 12-11-2008

Found this thread after googling the DVD model number and "red blinking light."

Opened case -- a visual inspection showed the capacitor swollen.

$1.59 1000 uF 35V radioshack capacitor as described above was soldered in and it fixed the problem.

Great fix, thanks for this thread.

DVD is back to working great!

Johnny

dvdfrizzle · 13-12-2008

Yep, the capacitor fix works just like mentioned in the previous threads.

Extra note: for the fix I used my old Philips DVD702 which was skipping/pausing during movies and the tray had become permanently stuck. Piece of junk....

Anyway, I found two 16V 1000uF capacitors! Put one in the DVP 642 to fix it and kept one as a spare! These were brown colored in my DVD702. The popped 10V capacitor from the 642 was black.

So if you have another old Philips DVD, might be worth looking inside to see if it has the part you need.

Hope that helps!! :-)

mbmsv · 12-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by jephthah

hello, people:

ESR is not the issue. anyone who says it is, doesnt know what they're talking about, and is just parroting the same misinformation. we're talking about a power supply circuit, not a high speed microcontroller.

I am afraid it is you who doesn't know what he is talking about. ESR does matter in power supplies and especially in switching power supplies such as this one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jephthah

the problem is, Phillips put 10V Capacitors on a 12V Power Supply. so of course its going to eventually fail, due it to being overvoltaged. the longer you leave the device on at a time, the sooner it will fail.

all you have to do is put a similar capacitance of at least 16V in its place. I put a 35V cap. if you replaced it with another 10V cap, it will eventually fail again, in about the same amount of time that it took it to fail the first time.

the question is, why is Phillips installing 10V caps in a power supply that calls for 16V? incompetence? negligence? what?

1. C316 is in 5V circuit, not 12V. Everything else is the price game. They can't afford a better part.
2. If you want the capacitor to last it should have a high ripple current rating. Low ESR caps are more likely to have it for a number of reasons. Also, try to pick a capacitor rated for at least 5000 hours at the temperature of 105 C. However, it might be difficult to find a low ESR aluminum capacitor with such a rating. Most of them are rated for 2000 hours only.

polynya · 23-02-2009

I also had the same DVP642/37 blinking "Standby On" light--could
not play or eject the CD or do anything else. I followed the procedure
quoted by Wobble--replace the blown 10v C316 capacitor with a 35V
capacitor. It worked great--I just wanted to add one note for soldering
iron newbies (like myself): after removing the motherboard from the
chassis and applying the soldering iron to the underside to loosen up
the existing C316, I noticed that the melted solder was getting dangerously
close to shorting with another connection. So, after removing the old cap,
I heated a sewing needle and pushed it through both holes from the top side.
Now I was able to push the connectors on the new cap in without melting
any more solder on the bottom side of the motherboard. After clipping off
the excess connector wire, I was able to solder in the new cap with a
minimum of heat.

Many thanks for this solution--I was ready to throw away my DVP642.

23-05-2006	#1
CoolhandTN New on Forum Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 3	Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Had the player almost a year and its worked like a charm until today. Finished watching a flick this afternoon and went to take my dog out when i came back in the unit was off and i didnt pay it any mind. I tried to put another movie in about an hour later and i cant get it to do anything at all now. The standby/power light stays on when plugged up but when you try to turn it on by that button or the eject on the remote or unit itself the light will go off for a second then come back on and nothing happens. I've mashed every button i can think of and i cant even get it to open. Any suggestions would be appreciated, i cant afford to buy another one right now so hopefully this is just some fluke..

23-05-2006	#2
wobble Gone but not forgotten Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Dark Side of the Moon Posts: 1,624	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. In the user comments on this player at videohelp.com is a fix for the problem you are having. Something about replacing a capacitor.

23-05-2006	#3
imkidd57 Senior Moderator & Editor Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: New Fajara Posts: 8,560	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Hi CoolhandTN, and welcome to the forum . What you describe is something pretty basic. Before suggesting anything complicated, if your machine is less than 1 year old, then a return under the manufacturer's standard guarantee may be the easiest first step. __________________ . . ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ If you are new to the internet, have a query about digital storage, or would maybe like to tell us a bit about yourself: just register with us and try either the Newbie forum or the CD Freaks Living Room. Alternatively, if you fancy some chit-chat (without technical help), then you're welcome to use the Chatbox to have a natter to other experienced members and staff. Look what you get when you join CD Freaks: Interactive access to our forum-based knowledge service Give feedback on News articles on the Front Page Ask questions to the people that actually review the software & hardware Chat with staff and members alike in the live Chatbox Option of a free newsletter Nervous about posting? Don't be: this is one of the friendliest communities around and we value our new members. You're well-protected by the forum rules that everyone signs up to. So what are you waiting for? Click the smiley to join --> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

24-05-2006	#4
CoolhandTN New on Forum Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 3	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the date when it was bought and it was almost 2 years ago (i have a bad memory) so the warranty is out. I read up on the power problem and checked it out to find that i had a capicitor swollen which i assumed was the problem according to the post at the other place. I removed the old one and stole the correct one from an old apex i had for parts and now i get the blinking light. It didnt blink before just stayed solid then blinked when i tried to press buttons, but after seeing the capicitor that had to be what was wrong with it. It was my first time sautering so maybe i did something wrong. I made sure the holes were clear so i'm not sure where i screwed up. Any other suggestions would be appreciated, i dont really have anyone that can sauter so if i cant fix it i'll just sell it for a fixer upper/parts unit. If nothing else i'd like to be able to get my dvd out of the player, maybe someone can help with that lol..

11-07-2006	#6
jacksparrow New on Forum Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. I'm having the same solid standby light problem as CoolhandTN and did indeed have a blown C316 cap. After replacing the capacitor with a 1000uf 16v part, I'm still seeing a solid standby light with no response to buttons. Any ideas?

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29-08-2006	#8
bossfn New on Forum Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 4	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Would it be safe to use a 1000u capacitor that is rated 50V ? I couldn't find a 16/32 at the source here in canada. I guess I could try a different store, but if I can get away with this one I will.

09-09-2006	#9
RuWin New on Forum Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 2	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. 50V will work fine as long as it can fit... Low-ESR type capacitor would be preferable,though... Unfortunately, "no power" problem also could be caused by defective CPU board (up to 40 percents of cases). Even screwed up firmware can cause "No power" problem... and sometimes defective front panel control board.

30-10-2006	#10
mlim82480 New on Forum Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. The capacitor I took out of my player was 10v 1000uF. Should I try getting another 10v or go with a higher ratings?

05-12-2006	#11
galactico New on Forum Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. wobble, thanks a ton!! i changed the cap, and the player works like a charm. the good news is 2 other guys at work have an identical model, and now know how to fix it if the player barfs on them. Thanks again

11-03-2007	#12
BlackMael New on Forum Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I noticed the problem with my 642k a couple of weeks ago and only just got round to looking for a fix. At first I thought it was just a standard/simple issue and it would be something in the manual. After a couple of hours I finally track down my manual only to find it was useless. Five minutes googling lead me here I'm not usually only confident to perform electronic alterations, but thought I had nothing to lose. The capacitor in question only cost me 20 cents NZ! The original one was also only 10v. The new capacitor worked like a charm. Again thank you!

05-05-2007	#13
caltroon New on Forum Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Does anyone have photos of this procedure? I got my red blinking light today. DVP642/37 It appears as though this is a two step procedure - take the damaged capacitor out first and bring it to Radio Shack, match it up, then bring it home and put it in. Is this so? I've read the instructions and they seem really complicated. I hope if I follow this step by step I can do it. Thank you, Carol

18-12-2007	#14
Crash27 New on Forum Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Thanks ! This worked perfect. I bought my DVP 642/37 in 2004 from The Source, It has been a great player, I installed the newest Firmware and the Region free hack. It has worked great with almost all movies, The occasional time the it would play movies all out of whack and distorted but all I had to do was turn on Progressive and then after it did its page flash I would just exit and the movie was crystal clear, Other than that It has done everything I wanted it to. Then a few days ago I decided that I was going to upgrade to a newer Phillips so I bought the new DVP5982/37 so I could use the USB which works great, but anyway I gave the old DVP642/37 to the girfriend and not even 20 minutes later she broke it. I had the issue listed above, the power light would just flash on and off, the occasional time it would stay on until I hit a button then it would start flashing again so I took a look at the Capacitor C316 and it was buldged at the top. I had tons of capacitor's from all my electronics I salvaged and I replaced it with the same one 10000u @10V and it works great now thanks to this site and post.

09-03-2008	#15
jephthah New on Forum Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. hello, people: ESR is not the issue. anyone who says it is, doesnt know what they're talking about, and is just parroting the same misinformation. we're talking about a power supply circuit, not a high speed microcontroller. the problem is, Phillips put 10V Capacitors on a 12V Power Supply. so of course its going to eventually fail, due it to being overvoltaged. the longer you leave the device on at a time, the sooner it will fail. all you have to do is put a similar capacitance of at least 16V in its place. I put a 35V cap. if you replaced it with another 10V cap, it will eventually fail again, in about the same amount of time that it took it to fail the first time. the question is, why is Phillips installing 10V caps in a power supply that calls for 16V? incompetence? negligence? what?

13-09-2008	#16
minkrott New on Forum Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Thank you!! I bought Radio Shack part number 272-1032 1000 uf, 35 V and installed negative side towards power cord / fuse. It cost $1.59 plus tax. DVD player now works like new.

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12-11-2008	#17
johnnyl New on Forum Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Found this thread after googling the DVD model number and "red blinking light." Opened case -- a visual inspection showed the capacitor swollen. $1.59 1000 uF 35V radioshack capacitor as described above was soldered in and it fixed the problem. Great fix, thanks for this thread. DVD is back to working great! Johnny

13-12-2008	#18
dvdfrizzle New on Forum Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. Yep, the capacitor fix works just like mentioned in the previous threads. Extra note: for the fix I used my old Philips DVD702 which was skipping/pausing during movies and the tray had become permanently stuck. Piece of junk.... Anyway, I found two 16V 1000uF capacitors! Put one in the DVP 642 to fix it and kept one as a spare! These were brown colored in my DVD702. The popped 10V capacitor from the 642 was black. So if you have another old Philips DVD, might be worth looking inside to see if it has the part you need. Hope that helps!! :-)

23-02-2009	#20
polynya New on Forum Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 1	Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem.. I also had the same DVP642/37 blinking "Standby On" light--could not play or eject the CD or do anything else. I followed the procedure quoted by Wobble--replace the blown 10v C316 capacitor with a 35V capacitor. It worked great--I just wanted to add one note for soldering iron newbies (like myself): after removing the motherboard from the chassis and applying the soldering iron to the underside to loosen up the existing C316, I noticed that the melted solder was getting dangerously close to shorting with another connection. So, after removing the old cap, I heated a sewing needle and pushed it through both holes from the top side. Now I was able to push the connectors on the new cap in without melting any more solder on the bottom side of the motherboard. After clipping off the excess connector wire, I was able to solder in the new cap with a minimum of heat. Many thanks for this solution--I was ready to throw away my DVP642.